Chen Shiyu: Formal attire serves an important function as a medium of symbolism. Therefore, many of its parts must richly incorporate symbolic elements.
Take, for example, the emperor’s ceremonial robes (mianfu). The shoulders bear the sun and moon, and the back displays stars—symbols representing the fundamental elements of the cosmos. The dragon, as the supreme divine creature, is also prominently featured.
Next are the earth’s most significant elements, such as mountains. Following that is fire, an essential element for human life. Representing the animal kingdom is the resplendent pheasant, one of the most magnificent birds.
The final motif is the zongyi—ancient ritual vessels that signify reverence for the ancestors.
These motifs are all featured on the upper part of the garment.
On the lower part, there are four additional emblems: water plants from the rivers, symbolizing integrity; fenmi (rice grains), representing daily sustenance; fu (an axe), symbolizing warfare, decisive judgment, and authority; and finally, fu (two ‘弓’ shapes placed back-to-back), representing justice and fairness.
By placing symbols of nature on the upper garment and symbols of society on the lower, the design reflects a traditional Chinese worldview—a deep respect for the natural order alongside a profound emphasis on social norms, order, and virtues.
Twelve Motifs, Twelve Meanings What Is the Design Philosophy Behind the Emperor’s Ceremonial Robes (Mianfu)
